Estancia Cristina: Exploring Patagonia’s Settler History

The Settlement of Patagonia

Travelling to Patagonia, I was particularly interested in the history of the region’s settlement. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Argentine and Chilean governments actively encouraged European immigration to populate and develop the area. Thousands of settlers arrived, mostly from Britain, Germany, and Croatia, drawn by the promise of land and opportunity.

Land was often granted to those willing to settle in these remote areas. By the early 1900s, there were hundreds of estancias, largely focused on sheep farming. Life on an estancia was difficult due to harsh weather, strong winds, long winters, poor soil, and extreme isolation. Not only were they located in a remote part of the world, many estancias were also only accessible by boat.

Over time, economic shifts, changes in government policy, and the region’s isolation led many families to leave. By the mid-to-late 20th century, many of the original settlers had moved elsewhere, leaving their estancias behind.

Estancia Cristina

I jumped at the opportunity to visit Estancia Cristina, a historic colonial ranch. Getting there is part of the experience and reveals just how remote the location is. A 1.5-hour boat ride across Lake Argentino offers views of the distant Spegazzini Glacier and Upsala Glacier. Arriving at the estancia, you are met with vast plains and strong winds, offering a glimpse into the unforgiving terrain and how difficult life on the ranch would have been.

Estancia Cristina was founded in 1914 by Joseph Masters, an English pioneer who arrived in Patagonia with his wife and their children. The family built everything from the ground up, initially living on their boat before constructing permanent buildings. The ranch was originally known as the Masters Estancia and was later renamed Estancia Cristina after the death of their daughter Cristina, who died of pneumonia at age 20.

The primary livelihood of the Masters family was sheep farming. At its peak, Estancia Cristina managed thousands of sheep, along with some cattle. The estancia was later run by the Masters’ son, Herbert, until his death in the 1980s. It was then managed by Janet Hermingston, who initially came to work on the ranch and later became Herbert’s wife. As traditional sheep farming declined and tourism in Patagonia increased, the estancia gradually transitioned from ranching to tourism. Today, it operates as a visitor site and museum, preserving the history of the region’s early settlers.

Indigenous History of Patagonia

It is not possible to speak of European settlement in Patagonia without acknowledging the Indigenous communities who lived on the land long before their arrival. Patagonia was home to the Tehuelche peoples, nomadic hunter-gatherers with a deep connection to the land. They moved across the steppe based on the season, hunting guanaco for their survival.

The arrival of European settlers had devastating impacts on the Tehuelche, including displacement from their lands and exposure to infectious diseases. Their population declined significantly over time. Today, different Tehuelche communities exist and there is are renewed efforts to preserve their preserve traditions, languages, and heritage.